Fancy dress costumes spend most of the year folded in a bag at the back of a wardrobe, so it is no surprise they come out looking crumpled. Shop-bought Halloween outfits are often worse still: they arrive folded tightly around cardboard in a plastic sleeve, with sharp creases pressed into thin synthetic fabric. The good news is that almost all of those creases can be relaxed in a few minutes, as long as you go gently. This guide covers how to get creases out of a fancy dress costume without melting, shrinking or flattening it.
Why costumes crease so badly
Most costumes are made from polyester, nylon, acetate satin, polyester velvet, tulle or a mix of these. These synthetics hold a fold stubbornly once it has been set by heat or weight, and many of them are sensitive to high temperatures. A hot iron pressed straight onto polyester satin can leave a shiny mark in seconds, and on thin nylon or tulle it can melt the fibres completely.
Add in glued trims, sequins, printed designs, foam pieces and plastic boning, and you can see why a normal ironing routine is risky. Steam is usually the better tool, because it relaxes the fibres with moisture and gentle warmth rather than direct pressure.
Check the label first
Before you do anything, find the care label. It is often tucked into a side seam or the back neckline. Look at the iron symbol: one dot means low heat, and a crossed-out iron means no ironing at all. A crossed-out iron does not always rule out steam, but it is a clear sign to keep the heat well away from the fabric and to test first. If you are not sure what the symbols mean, our fabric care symbols guide explains each one.
If there is no label at all, which is common with cheaper costumes, treat the whole outfit as a delicate synthetic and use the gentlest method.
Step 1: Unpack and hang it straight away
Take the costume out of its packet as soon as you can, ideally a few days before the party. Remove any cardboard inserts and pins, then hang it on a sturdy hanger. Use a padded or wide hanger for heavier capes and coats so the shoulders do not stretch. Many light creases will drop out on their own within a day or two, simply from the weight of the fabric.
A warm, steamy bathroom helps too. Hang the costume on the back of the door while someone has a shower, keeping it away from the direct spray.
Step 2: Test a hidden patch
Choose a spot that will not show, such as an inside hem or a seam allowance. Steam it for two or three seconds from a few centimetres away, then let it cool and check it. You are looking for any shine, puckering, colour change or stiffness. If the fabric looks the same and the crease has softened, you are good to carry on. If you see any change, move the steamer further away and use shorter bursts.
Step 3: Steam with distance and short bursts
With the costume hanging, hold the fabric gently taut at the hem with one hand and work from the top down with the other. Keep the steamer moving and slightly away from the fabric rather than pressed against it. For most costume synthetics, a gap of a few centimetres is plenty. Let the steam do the work, then smooth the area lightly with your hand once it has cooled for a moment.
A handheld steamer suits this kind of job well, because it is quick to get going and easy to angle around sleeves, ruffles and capes. The f10 Handheld Clothes Steamer has two steam settings, Full Power and Eco Mode, so you can start on the gentler setting for thin fabrics. It also comes with a Fabric Guard for delicate materials and a Collar Press for collars and cuffs. You can browse the full range in our handheld clothes steamers collection.
A note on steamers with a hot plate
Some steamers have a heated plate that you can press against fabric for a sharper finish. The f20 Handheld Clothes Steamer Pro with Suction, for example, uses gentle suction to draw the garment onto a plate that reaches 160°C, which gives an ironed finish on shirts and trousers. For costumes, use this kind of plate with care. Keep it off sequins, glitter, foam, plastic, printed areas and anything that might melt, and use steam only on thin synthetics unless the label and your test patch say otherwise. The f20 also has a gentler steam setting, which is the one to start with.
How to treat common costume fabrics
Polyester and satin
Most witch dresses, superhero capes and princess gowns are polyester or polyester satin. Steam from a short distance, keep moving and avoid lingering in one spot. If a crease will not budge, steam the inside of the garment instead of the shiny outer side, which reduces the risk of water marks.
Tulle and net
Tutus, petticoats and fairy skirts flatten easily and can melt under direct heat. Hang them upside down if you can, so the layers fall open, and steam each layer from further away than usual. Fluff the layers with your fingers as they cool. Never press anything hot against tulle.
Velvet and velour
Steam is far kinder to velvet than an iron, which crushes the pile. Steam from the back of the fabric where possible, then brush the pile gently in its natural direction with your hand once it is dry.
Sequins, glitter and printed designs
Sequins are usually plastic and can curl or lose their shine with heat. Steam the reverse side of the fabric, behind the sequins, at a good distance and in very short bursts. The same applies to screen prints and glitter, which can soften and stick. If a printed area is badly creased, lay a clean cotton tea towel over it and steam through the towel.
Faux fur and fleece
Animal onesies and fluffy costumes rarely need much. A light, distant steam followed by a shake usually lifts flattened fibres. Leave it to dry fully on the hanger before you wear it.
Things to avoid
- A hot iron straight onto synthetics. If you must iron, use the lowest setting, iron inside out and put a cotton cloth between the iron and the fabric.
- Steaming while someone is wearing it. It is tempting the night of the party, but steam is hot enough to scald. Always steam a costume on a hanger.
- Soaking glued parts. Many trims, gems and appliqués are glued on. Too much moisture can loosen them, so steam around these areas rather than over them.
- Wearing it damp. Give the costume ten to fifteen minutes to cool and dry before you put it on, or the creases can settle straight back in.
- Masks and rigid pieces. Plastic masks, foam armour and wired hats should not be steamed at all.
Children's costumes
School dress-up days and trick or treating mean a lot of children's costumes need sorting at short notice. Do the steaming yourself, away from little hands, and put the steamer somewhere safe to cool afterwards. Most children's costumes are thin polyester, so the gentle setting and a short burst are usually all you need.
Bobbles, lint and pet hair
Costumes made from knitted or brushed fabric can look tired even once the creases are gone. A fabric shaver removes bobbles from jumpers and knit costumes, and our guide on how to remove lint from clothes covers quick fixes for fluff and pet hair.
Storing a costume after the party
A little care after Halloween saves you doing all of this again next year:
- Check for make-up, fake blood or food marks and spot clean them as soon as you can, following the care label.
- Let the costume air out fully before you put it away.
- Hang it in a breathable garment bag rather than folding it back into plastic.
- If you have to fold it, roll it loosely around tissue paper instead of making sharp folds.
- Store hats, masks and props separately so they do not press into the fabric.
A quick routine for the night itself
If the party is tonight and the costume has just come out of the bag, here is a ten-minute plan. Hang it up and remove any packaging. Test a hidden spot. Steam the main body from top to bottom on the gentle setting, keeping your distance. Do the sleeves, cape or skirt next, then any collars or cuffs. Leave it to cool and dry while you do your make-up, and give it a final shake before you put it on.
For more on steaming everyday clothes, see our step-by-step guide on how to steam a shirt, or browse our full range of clothes steamers.
