New curtains arrive with sharp fold lines from the packet. Older ones hang limp, smell faintly of last night's dinner and collect dust along the pleats. Taking them down to wash or iron means unhooking every glider, wrestling with a ladder and hoping they still fit afterwards. The good news is that you rarely need to. Learning how to steam curtains while they are still on the pole is one of the most useful jobs a clothes steamer can do, and it takes far less time than ironing.
This guide covers what you need, which fabrics are safe, a six-step method that works for most curtains, and the mistakes that leave water marks or damaged linings.
Why steaming curtains in place works so well
Curtains are long, heavy and already hanging, which is exactly what steam likes. As the fibres warm and relax, the weight of the fabric pulls creases downwards and out. You do not need an ironing board, and you avoid the shine and flattened pleats that an iron can leave on curtain fabric.
Steaming in place also helps you keep on top of curtains between washes. A quick pass every few weeks lifts the fibres, helps to freshen fabric that has picked up cooking or damp smells, and makes the room look tidier straight away. It is not a substitute for washing or professional cleaning when curtains are genuinely dirty, but it means you need to do both less often. If you are weighing up the options, our guide to steaming versus dry cleaning explains when each makes sense.
What you need
- An upright clothes steamer. A floor-standing model with a long hose and a large tank is the easiest choice for full-length curtains, because you are not stopping every few minutes to refill. The Fridja f1200 Clothes Steamer Pro has a 2200W heater that is ready in about 35 seconds, continuous steam, a 3-litre tank and two steam settings, so you can turn it down for sheer fabrics.
- A handheld steamer for touch-ups (optional). Handy for hems, tie-backs and short café curtains. The f20 Handheld Clothes Steamer Pro with Suction heats up in about 30 seconds and weighs under a kilo, and the f10 Handheld Clothes Steamer gives up to 14 minutes of steam from its 260ml tank.
- A vacuum with a brush attachment to remove dust first.
- A sturdy step stool if you cannot comfortably reach the top of the curtains.
- Distilled or filtered water if you live in a hard water area, to cut down on limescale.
- A heatproof glove, which comes with the f1200, for steadying the fabric.
You can compare floor-standing models in our vertical clothes steamers range.
Check the fabric before you start
Most curtain fabrics take steam well, but a few need care. Always read the care label sewn into the side hem or lining. Our fabric care symbols guide explains what each symbol means.
- Cotton and cotton blends: steam well on the higher setting. Creases drop out quickly.
- Linen: loves steam but creases deeply. Use the higher setting and work slowly, gently pulling the hem downwards as you go.
- Polyester and voile: use the lower setting and keep the steam head moving. Lightweight sheers respond in seconds.
- Velvet: steam lightly from a short distance without pressing the head onto the pile, then brush the pile in one direction once it is dry.
- Silk: test first on a hidden area and use the gentlest setting. If the label says dry clean only, leave it to the professionals.
- Blackout and thermal linings: steam the face fabric and avoid holding hot steam on coated linings, which can mark or crack if overheated.
For a wider list, see what fabrics can be steamed.
How to steam curtains in 6 steps
1. Prepare the room
Open the window a little so moisture can escape, and close the curtains fully so you have a flat surface to work on. Move anything delicate off the window sill and protect wooden sills with a towel if they are close to the fabric.
2. Vacuum away the dust
Run the brush attachment down each panel, paying attention to the top pleats and the hem. Steaming dusty fabric can leave grey streaks, so this step matters more than it seems.
3. Fill and heat the steamer
Fill the tank, choose the setting for your fabric and let the steamer heat up fully. Release the first puff of steam into a towel, away from the curtains, to clear any water sitting in the hose.
4. Test a hidden patch
Steam a small area on the back of the side hem for a few seconds. Check for water spots, colour change or any change in texture before you carry on.
5. Work from top to bottom
Start at the heading and work down in vertical strips about the width of the steam head. Hold the hem lightly with your gloved hand to keep a little tension in the fabric, and move the head slowly and steadily. Keep it just touching or a centimetre or two away from the fabric, and never hold it still in one spot. Gravity does most of the work, so there is no need to press hard.
6. Let the curtains dry before you move them
Leave the curtains closed and undisturbed for 15 to 30 minutes so the fibres dry and set in their new shape. Opening them while they are still warm and damp can put fresh creases straight back in.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Steaming without a test patch. Some dyes and finishes react to heat and moisture.
- Holding the head in one place. This is the most common cause of water marks and shiny patches.
- Skipping the dust. Steam turns dust into streaks.
- Overreaching on a chair. Use a proper step stool and keep the steam pointing away from your face and hands.
- Ignoring limescale. A steamer that spits water usually needs descaling. Our guide to cleaning and descaling a clothes steamer shows how.
How long does it take?
A pair of full-length cotton curtains usually takes 15 to 25 minutes with an upright steamer, including drying time for the first panel while you work on the second. Linen and heavily creased new curtains take longer. Sheer voiles are quickest of all. A large tank makes a real difference here: the f1200's 3-litre tank and the 4-litre tank on the f1600 Commercial Clothes Steamer let you get through several windows without stopping to refill.
Keeping curtains looking fresh
A light steam every few weeks keeps curtains hanging neatly and helps to lift everyday smells. Wash or clean them according to the care label when they are visibly dirty, and steam them as soon as they are rehung so they dry straight. For new curtains, steam them once they are on the pole rather than ironing them beforehand: the fold lines drop out much more easily while the fabric is hanging at its full length.
Browse our full range of clothes steamers to find the right one for your home.
Frequently asked questions
Can you steam curtains without taking them down?
Yes. Most cotton, linen, polyester and voile curtains can be steamed while they hang. Close them fully, vacuum off the dust, test a hidden patch, then work from the top down in vertical strips. The weight of the fabric helps creases drop out, so you do not need an ironing board.
Can you steam blackout curtains?
You can usually steam the face fabric of blackout curtains, but take care with the coated lining. Keep the steam head moving, use a lower setting and do not hold hot steam against the rubbery backing, which can mark or crack if overheated. Always check the care label first.
Will steaming curtains leave water marks?
It should not if your steamer is fully heated and you keep the head moving. Release the first burst of steam into a towel to clear any water in the hose, test a hidden patch, and avoid lingering in one spot. Descaling regularly also stops a steamer spitting water.
How do you get creases out of new curtains?
Hang them first, then steam them from top to bottom while they are on the pole. Fold lines from the packaging relax quickly when the fabric hangs at full length. Linen and heavy cotton may need two passes. Leave them closed for half an hour afterwards so they dry and set straight.
What is the best steamer for curtains?
An upright steamer with a long hose, a large tank and continuous steam is easiest for full-length curtains, because you can work without stopping. The Fridja f1200 has a 3-litre tank and 2200W of continuous steam. A handheld steamer is useful for hems, tie-backs and shorter curtains.