Knitwear is one of the trickiest things to keep looking good. Jumpers crease at the elbows, cardigans lose their shape on the back of a chair, and a hot iron can flatten a cable knit or leave a shiny patch on wool in seconds. So is a steamer for knitwear the better choice? In most cases, yes. Here is why, how to do it properly, and the few situations where an iron or a different approach makes more sense.
Why steam suits knitted fabrics
Knitted fabric is made from loops of yarn rather than a flat weave. That structure is what gives a jumper its stretch, softness and texture, and it is also why pressing it flat with a heavy plate can do damage.
Steam works differently. Warm moisture relaxes the fibres, especially natural ones like wool, cashmere and merino, so creases drop out and the loops settle back into place. There is no pressure on the fabric, so ribbing, cables and raised patterns keep their depth. Wool in particular responds well to steam because its fibres naturally hold and release moisture.
Steam also helps freshen knitwear between washes. Many people wash jumpers far more often than they need to, which wears them out faster. A gentle steam and a good airing can be enough to refresh a jumper you have worn once or twice.
Steamer vs iron for knitwear: the key differences
- Texture. An iron presses the surface flat. A steamer leaves cables, ribs and chunky knits looking full and three-dimensional.
- Shine and scorching. Direct heat and pressure can leave a shine on dark wool or scorch delicate fibres. Steam held a short distance away avoids this.
- Stretching. Dragging an iron across a jumper on a board can pull it out of shape. Steaming on a hanger or flat surface does not.
- Speed. There is no board to set up and no need to turn the jumper several times. For a quick refresh before going out, a steamer is simply faster.
- Precision. An iron is still better for sharp creases, which you rarely want on knitwear anyway, and for blocking very specific shapes when used with a damp cloth.
For a wider comparison across all fabrics, see our guide to clothes steamers vs traditional irons.
How to steam a jumper properly
- Check the care label. Most wool, cashmere and cotton knits are fine with steam. If a label says do not iron or do not steam, follow it. Our fabric care symbols guide explains what each symbol means.
- Use a wide, padded hanger, or lay it flat. Thin wire hangers leave bumps in the shoulders of heavier knits. For chunky jumpers, steaming flat on a towel is often better.
- Keep the steamer head a short distance away. For knitwear, hold it a few centimetres from the fabric rather than pressing it on. Let the steam do the work.
- Work from top to bottom in slow passes. Start with the shoulders and body, then the sleeves. Give stubborn creases at the elbows a little longer.
- Reshape with your hands. While the fibres are warm and relaxed, gently smooth the jumper back into shape. Straighten the hem and cuffs and ease ribbing back to its original width.
- Let it cool and dry before wearing. This is the step most people skip. Leave the jumper flat or on a padded hanger for ten to fifteen minutes so the fibres set in their new shape.
Reshaping and drying knitwear flat
Steam is especially useful after washing. Knitted garments should usually be dried flat on a towel, never hung wet, because the weight of the water stretches them. Once dry, a light steam will smooth out any marks from the towel and help you reshape the body and sleeves.
If a jumper has lost its shape over time, you can lay it flat, steam it lightly, then gently ease it back to the right dimensions with your hands. Leave it to cool completely before moving it. This works best on natural fibres such as wool and cashmere.
Fibres that need extra care
- Cashmere and merino. These respond beautifully to steam. Keep the steamer moving and slightly further away to avoid making the surface damp.
- Mohair and angora. Steam can lift and fluff the fibres nicely, but hold the steamer well back and avoid touching the fabric.
- Acrylic and other synthetics. Many synthetic knits do not like high heat. Too much steam can soften or stretch them permanently. Test on an inside seam first and use short bursts at a greater distance.
- Embellished knits. Sequins, beads and some printed details can be damaged by heat. Steam from the inside, or avoid those areas.
If you are unsure about a particular fabric, our guide to what fabrics can be steamed is a useful starting point.
What steam will not fix
Steam is excellent for creases and freshening, but it will not remove bobbles. Pilling happens where fibres rub together, usually under the arms and along the sides, and those small balls of fibre need to be removed. A fabric shaver such as the Fridja f40 Fabric Shaver takes them off safely, and a quick steam afterwards leaves the surface looking smooth. Our article on how to remove bobbles from knitwear covers the technique step by step.
Steam also will not remove stains or deep odours. If a jumper needs a proper clean, wash it according to the label, then steam once it is dry.
Which steamer is best for knitwear?
Both upright and handheld steamers work well on knitted fabrics. The right choice depends on how much knitwear you have and how you like to work.
For a full wardrobe of jumpers and coats, an upright steamer is the most comfortable option. The Fridja f1200 Clothes Steamer Pro has a 2200W motor that delivers continuous steam, with the controls on the base rather than a trigger on the handle, so you can work through several garments without hand fatigue. Hanging a jumper on the built-in hanger also makes it easy to work around the sleeves.
For quick touch-ups and smaller spaces, a handheld steamer is ideal. The Fridja f10 Handheld Clothes Steamer is a Which? Best Buy, heats up in around 35 seconds and weighs under 1kg, so it is easy to grab for a jumper before you head out.
You can compare the full range in our clothes steamers collection.
Storing knitwear so it needs less steaming
- Fold, do not hang, heavy knits. Hanging pulls the shoulders out of shape over time.
- Give jumpers breathing space. Packing them tightly in a drawer causes deep creases.
- Air before putting away. A jumper worn for an evening should air for a few hours before going back in the wardrobe.
- Store clean. Moths are attracted to body oils and food marks, so wash or steam before storing for the season. Our guide to storing winter clothes properly has more detail.
The verdict
For most knitwear, a steamer is gentler, faster and kinder to texture than an iron. It relaxes creases, freshens between washes and helps you reshape jumpers after drying flat. Keep the steamer head a little away from the fabric, reshape while it is warm, and let each piece cool before you wear it. Pair your steamer with a fabric shaver for bobbles, and your favourite jumpers will look new for far longer.